I have a four month old kitten.What shots does he need and I don’t know records, is giving him them twice ok?
Brinley is a four month old male, INDOOR ONLY Persian/American Bobtail mix, a “perbob” lol. I got him about 12 weeks and his breeder said he was up to date on his shots. Basicaly that he had his fist and second set of shots along with de-worming and flea control. I tried to contact her, so I could get his records and she wont respond =/. That makes me think he possibly did not get them? I know he got flea conrol because he had the little dab on his neck.
I am trying to get him the least required, I heard uneeded shots can be bad for cats. (don’t argue, I don’t care.) Leukemia and Rabies are NOT ones I am getting. His parents where tested. He is safe. He is being neutered right now, from the best vet in the area, I want the best for him.
CVRC (Feline Distemper and Upper Respiratory Viruses) is all I am planing on getting, does this sound good and when do you think it should be done if it already might have and since he just was neutered? I am open to any sugestions. Thank you!
May 15th, 2011 at 8:36 pm
Since the vet is doing surgery, I would imagine they consider him to be fully vaccinated. I wouldn’t worry about doing further vaccines until one year after the last were given (if you don’t know the date, go with the date that you got him or as early as a week before), if you plan to give them when he is an adult. My cats are indoors only and I stopped getting them vaccinated after about three or four years. But do still do annual physicals!
had the same problem in the summer; info from my veterinarian
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May 17th, 2011 at 10:33 pm
I’m pretty sure the vets won’t operate or even treat a kitten unless he’s up do date on his shots. The pet store where i bought my kitten lied (i think) about giving him his first round of vaccines. When i told my vet, she said it wouldn’t be safe to give him ‘double’ so to be on the safe side, we didn’t give him any shots. I think the whole vetrinary industry is a pain right in the ass…they just want to give as many vaccines as possible and check as much poop as possible hoping to find parasites so they can charge an arm and a leg for kitty meds. anyway, i think if your vet is operating right now, i’d say he’s fine.
good luck.
had the same problem in the summer; info from my veterinarian
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May 20th, 2011 at 1:34 am
Your vet should recommend what is best.
I would get the CVRC, rabies and leukemia
You can go to the American Association of Feline Practitioners for the full scoop.
http://www.aafp.org
Good Luck!
had the same problem in the summer; info from my veterinarian
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May 22nd, 2011 at 4:34 am
12 weeks
Feline Leukemia shot (FeLV) (only if pretest is negative). A second (FeLV) shot given 2 to 3 weeks later. Second vaccination shot (FVRCP).
Also…at 4 months your cat will need a rabies vaccine. It is the law. Well here anyways. Just because your cat is indoor doesnt mean he is safe. If a mouse gets in or your cat gets out…then he is at risk. check out this website for a vaccine schedule.
http://petcaretips.net/cat_vaccination_schedule.html
I was a veterinary technician &
http://petcaretips.net/cat_vaccination_schedule.html
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May 24th, 2011 at 7:34 am
Redoing shots he may have already had is not likely going to hurt him, although if you can avoid redoing them, that is the best option. Consider that when dogs and cats are found and put in shelters and rescues, all shots are given because it is just not known if the others are done.
Not a very reputable breeder if she won’t even bother to give you the records.
To be neutered, your vet will need proof of certain vaccines – depends on your area and your vet. Without proof of rabies, that is definitely one you may need to repeat.
good luck
I was a veterinary technician &
http://petcaretips.net/cat_vaccination_schedule.html
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May 26th, 2011 at 11:34 am
As the breeder didn’t give you the papers for this kitten, how can you be sure his parents were tested & that he is safe from anything?
It sounds to me like this breeder might be a little bit shady. I have never heard of a reputable breeder who didn’t give ALL of a kitten or puppy’s papers/shot records/etc to the new owners.
If you TRULY want the best for him, I would go ahead & get the full range of vaccinations, just to be on the safe side. Without paperwork , you have no way of knowing for sure if his parents are disease-free or not.
I was a veterinary technician &
http://petcaretips.net/cat_vaccination_schedule.html
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May 28th, 2011 at 6:35 pm
Kittens
8 weeks to 1 year:
8 weeks – First vaccination shot (FVRCP).
12 weeks:
Feline Leukemia shot (FeLV) (only if pretest is negative). A second (FeLV) shot given 2 to 3 weeks later. Second vaccination shot (FVRCP).
4 months:
Rabies and third vaccination shot (FVRCP).
Adult Cats
FVRCP
Yearly. Cats 13 weeks or older that have not been vaccinated should have an initial vaccine then a booster in 2 to 4 weeks.
FeLV
Yearly. Cats not previously vaccinated need the two injection series (only if pretest is negative).
Rabies
Yearly (depending on vaccine)
http://petcaretips.net/cat_vaccination_schedule.html
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May 31st, 2011 at 6:33 am
Here in IL, a cat w/o a rabies shot can be destroyed if it ever got taken to the animal shelters. You’d best get that rabies shot too.
http://petcaretips.net/cat_vaccination_schedule.html
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June 2nd, 2011 at 9:36 pm
I have 3 cats that are indoor only and I agree with you on the unnecessary shots so you will get no argument with me there. I have heard that they can shorten their life span.
However, I would get the Leukemia and Rabies shots one time only.
Leukemia shot – feline leukemia is an airborne virus that your cat can get if there are other cats that are around outside. Even though he has been tested negative he could still get it if an outside cat has it.
Rabies shot – Until he gets older and you know that he will not bite/attack get the rabies shot. That way if he does you will not be forced to put the cat down if he doesn’t.
I have 4 cats – all of them have had complete rounds of shots their first year only. Leukemia, Rabies, Distemper, etc. and that is it. They are all inside cats only and have lived or are living long lives. My cats are 25, 22, 10, 3 years old.
Since he was just neutered and you are keeping him inside I would not stress on timing of when to get the shots. There really is no timetable. Continue to pester the breeder for a copy of records. If she came highly recommended I really wouldn’t stress on it. If you don’t get them from her in about 1 month than call and speak to your vet if you are still concerned.
When he comes home after being neutered don’t be surprised if he doesn’t eat for a day or two. This is normal behavior since he just had surgery. If you are given pain meds only give them to him for the first day home. Cats seem to bounce back fast. If he throws up it could be because his tummy is upset from the meds and the trama of what has happened. He may even hide on you for a day. Also, if he licks himself is fine…just make sure he doesn’t chew or pull on the stitches.
Since he is going to be inside only are you getting him declawed? I highly recommend it.
Good luck with your new baby kitty….
25+ years cat experience
12+ years feral cat rescue/fostering
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June 5th, 2011 at 12:33 pm
I applaud your choice not to overvaccinate. My vet actually recommended this herself with my newest cat. If you are keeping him indoors and aren’t going to introduce any untested cats, it’s a fantastic choice.
Distemper/URI are definitely needed, though, but I would think he already has those though. Most vets won’t allow a cat into a multi-cat environment without that vacc, even vets that are open to not vaccinating.
25+ years cat experience
12+ years feral cat rescue/fostering
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June 8th, 2011 at 12:33 am
Your choices look good to me. An indoor cat can go pretty much without shots even rabies but of course state laws can come into that. But then my indoor cats were never seen by the state.
You are being an excellent Mommy Bean. I am adding my thing on food. I wish I would have used my brain and thought this out myself years ago. I wish I would have done research but then who knows to researh something that we think we know about.
Kittens and some cats, need to eat more and do best with free feeding. Bowls of wet food can be left out all day and night. Wet food is fine for 12 hours even if you feed raw. A wet food should have some water added and mashed in so your kitten gets extra water. Cats have a very low thirst drive and do not get enough water.
Wet food that is High Protein and low Carb under 10 % will keep a cat full longer too.
Avoid dry food like a plague. It is the leading cause for feline diabetes, kidney failure, UTI’s, Crystals in the urine causing blockages. Also obesity and many other problems.
Cats swallow most of the dry food if you look at their barf it is whole and a few of the pieces shatter. The vets feel it is good for cats teeth because the pet food reps tell them it is!!
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http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=doesdryfoodcleantheteeth
The TRUTH!!!
Does Dry Food Clean the Teeth?
By Jean Hofve, DVM
Let’s get this one straight once and for all: dry food does not clean your cat’s teeth! In fact, dry food really has no benefits for the cat. It is merely a convenience for the guardian. If you haven’t already read “Why Cats Need Canned Food”, that’s a good place to start in your quest for accurate, up-to-date information on feeding cats.
Most cats don’t consistently chew dry food; they swallow it whole. Obviously, without contacting the teeth, there is zero effect on tartar accumulation. For cats who do chew dry food, whether consistently or occasionally, there is still little or no benefit. The kibbles shatter, so contact between the kibble and the teeth occurs only at the tips of the teeth. This is certainly not enough to make a difference in the formation of tartar and plaque, which most commonly builds up along (and underneath) the gumline at the base of the teeth.
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If you think of when you get hungry what fills you up the best? A bag of chips or cookies (Carbs) or a good piece of meat?
Cats need meat not carbs or veggies or fruit ever!!
Please read the first link to see everything I could write to you and decided to let an expert tell you. then chose a food that is canned from the 2nd list that meets the high protein low carb.
If your cat has loose stools or is throwing up alot or has food allergies and the vet doesn't find something wrong with them like cancer etc. Feeding raw usually takes care of those problems. In America you are lucky you can even order raw food that is delivered to the door frozen. Read the below for info. Some cats refuse raw and then you need to pick a good food from the lists below. Wellness is a very good food - the grain free but it is higher in fat and can make a cat sick. If it is ok with your cat it can help put on weight. There are many good middle type foods that can be very good for your cat and not break the budget too.
DON'T DECLAW EVERY!! NOT AN OPTION.
http://www.catinfo.org
read this article for all the healthy choices
in food for your cat.
http://www.geocities.com/jmpeerson/ca...
Janet and Binky’s Cat food chart
Thinking of letting your cat go outdoors? Read this!!
http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=indoorsoroutdoors
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I gave my cat diabetes after feeding her canned with gravy (gravy equals carbs) and lots of dry. I believe 100% that dry gave her diabetes.
I study cat health daily.
Whiskas is now advertising in Canada that cats need wet canned food to be healthy. They of course still want to sell dry so they are saying they need dry also. At least it is a start.
I have been owned by cats for 61 years.
25+ years cat experience
12+ years feral cat rescue/fostering
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